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FUSION™ MINERAL PAINT

Welcome to the fabulous world of furniture painting! Pick up a pint, grab your brush and join the many happy painters who have tapped into their creativity, dispelled anxiety and stress, discovered hidden talents and saved (or even made) money through the satisfying process of upcycling furniture!

About

Made with 100% acrylic resin and natural mineral pigments, Fusion™ Mineral Paint boasts excellent adhesion, superior durability and fade resistance. Fusion™ Mineral Paint can be applied to most previously painted surfaces without priming or significant prep work and is formulated with a built-in top coat, meaning you do not need to use a top coat for water permanency! It can also be applied to plastic, metal, melamine, laminate and glass with the appropriate prepping. Offering incredible coverage, one 500 millilitre jar of Fusion™ Mineral Paint can cover up to 75 square feet.

Highlights:

  • Built-in top coat

  • Washable matte finish

  • No VOCs

  • Made in Canada

  • Dry to the touch after 2 hours, ready for additional coats after 4 hours and ready for gentle use after 24-48 hours (fully cured in 21 days)

Great for:

  • Smooth, solid, uniform finishes

  • Kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities

  • Exterior doors, shutters and outdoor furniture (including fabric)

Prep

For optimal results, a little prep goes a long way and will ensure that all of your hard work is going to last. Below you’ll find some circumstances that will require a little extra prep:

Waxed, Polished and Oiled Surfaces
Wax, furniture polish and oil-based cleaners (including paint strippers) will repel paint. To ensure adhesion, these surfaces must be cleaned with mineral spirits or odourless solvents, a scraper and some elbow grease. Keep cleaning until sanding yields a fine, powdery dust.

High Tannin Wood
Pine, oak, cedar and mahogany contain a substance called “tannin” and it can seep through paint, causing unsightly splotches and discolouration. It’s recommended to seal knots and grains with a shellac-based primer before painting.

Stained Wood
Some vintage furniture has been stained with an oil-based product that can bleed through when painted. These surfaces should be sealed with shellac.

Manufactured Surfaces
Laminate, melamine, thermofoil, plastic, glass and metal should be primed with a thin coat of Fusion™ Ultra Grip before painting. High-gloss paint, lacquer and varnish finishes should be scuff sanded until dull.

Supplies:

Steps:

  1. Strip surface of any waxes, oils or polishes with mineral spirits or odourless solvent and a scraper.

  2. Clean with warm water and an oil-free degreaser, paying close attention to crevices and high-touch areas (especially on kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities).

  3. Wipe down all surfaces with a clean cloth and warm water to remove any soap residue. If the water isn’t relatively clear, clean again.

  4. Scuff sand wood and painted surfaces with a medium grit sanding sponge. Wipe away all of the dust with a clean damp cloth and vacuum your workspace.

  5. Seal knots and open grain with shellac to avoid bleed-through.

  6. Apply a coat of Ultra Grip if scuff sanding isn’t possible or won’t suffice.

Painting

Fusion™ Mineral Paint is akin to nail polish in terms of texture and application technique. It needs a good shake, should be applied thinly and dries very fast.

Load a soft synthetic bristle brush or microfelt roller with paint, removing the excess on the rim or in the tray. Paint small sections, starting with the edges before the flat surfaces and always following the wood grain (or longest edge of the piece). Start your stroke in the centre of the section, then go up and down, finishing with one uni-directional stroke from one edge to the other. Wipe up drips and pooling immediately (especially along edges and in corners) with your finger and if you see a spot you’ve missed, resist fixing it until the paint is fully dry.

Wait at least 4 hours before applying a subsequent coats and 24 hours before adding a topcoat or decorative finish. Like any water-based paint, Fusion™ Mineral Paint needs 21 days to fully cure. Be gentle!

Seeing brush strokes? This is likely caused by one or more of the following:

  • Too much paint on your tool (often applied with too much pressure)
  • Poor quality or incorrect tools
  • Over-working the paint
  • Excessive dryness (both environmental and surface)

To minimize undesirable texture, always use quality tools that have been well-cared for. Avoid natural-bristle brushes and rollers that are very fuzzy or made out of foam. Start with a damp brush and rinse it frequently during your project (blotting ALL excess water), and paint with a very light hand. Avoid excessive back-and-forth painting and if it’s been more than even just a couple of minutes since you’ve applied the paint, don’t go back over that section until it’s fully dry.

If the surface is very porous, adding a bit of water to your paint (or simply dipping your brush in water) may help for the first coat or 2, but as you build coats, the need for water should decrease.

Adding “Extender” to your paint will slow the dry time and reduce the chances of leaving brush strokes, but will also increase the time needed between coats and the overall cure time of the paint.

Removing Brush Strokes

It is inevitable that if you are using a brush, there will be some texture. That being said, you can reduce brush strokes by wet sanding between coats. To do this,

  1. Allow paint to dry for 1-2 hours.
  2. Moisten a piece of high grit (400+) sandpaper.
  3. Gently sand out the texture using small circular motions.
  4. Wipe away residue with a damp cloth.
  5. Apply next coat of paint.

Bear in mind that sanding can burnish the paint and shouldn’t be done on the last coat unless you smooth sand the entire surface.

If you are still not satisfied, using a high quality microfelt roller may offer a finish better suited to your taste and help to mask the brush strokes.

Sealing

Fusion™ Mineral Paint has a built-in top coat making it water-resistant and scrubbable. That being said, certain projects will still benefit from an extra layer of protection. Kitchen cabinets, bathroom vanities, dining tables and any high-use piece should have an extra topcoat applied.

Tough Coat (matt or gloss)

This water-based topcoat is non-yellowing and perfect for white and light colours. It isn’t recommended for dark colours because it can dry cloudy if applied too thick or unevenly. Add Extender if struggling with quick drying times for a consistent streak-free finish.

  1. Gently mix the product by swirling the bottle (do not shake it)
  2. Using a microfelt roller or damp automotive sponge, apply a very thin coat from end to end. Use slow and even strokes to avoid bubbles and streaking. Work in a methodical fashion to ensure full coverage.
  3. Allow to dry 24-48 hours before replacing hardware or using piece. Fully cured in 21 days.

Stain & Finishing Oil (natural)

Perfect for dark colours, this oil-based topcoat provides exceptional durability and clarity. It shouldn’t be used on light colours because of its tendency to yellow with time.

  1. Stir the oil very well.
  2. Apply a small amount of product to a lint-free cloth or applicator pad and apply using circular motions (like you’re polishing a boot).
  3. Moving in one direction, wipe off excess with a clean cloth from edge to edge.
  4. Allow to dry 48-72 hours before replacing hardware or using the piece. Fully cured in 10 days.

Furniture Wax (clear)

A great way to achieve a satin finish, soft wax is ideal for low traffic surfaces (wardrobes, side tables, dressers). Bear in mind that, should you wish to repaint the piece, you must first remove the wax with a solvent.

  1. Use sparingly, a little goes a long way!
  2. Scoop a small amount with a brush or rag and apply with small circular motions.
  3. Buff with a clean lint-free rag to remove excess wax and enhance sheen.

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