Welcome to the fabulous world of furniture painting! Pick up a pint, grab your brush and join the many happy painters who have tapped into their creativity, dispelled anxiety and stress, discovered hidden talents and saved (or even made) money through the satisfying process of upcycling furniture!
About
Milk paint is the oldest form of paint and has stood the test of time – literally. Variations of the formula have been found is caves dating back 30 000 years and was used to paint murals in King Tut’s tomb! No one can argue the durability of milk paint.
Created by mixing a blend of powdered pigments with water, one can achieve a consistency of paint that ranges from stain to fully opaque. Adding a bonding agent will increase its adhesion, while working without will give you a beautifully authentic old-world charm. Because of its thin, watery consistency, milk paint is extremely versatile and very forgiving. It will get into the smallest crevices and can be applied with virtually any brush – texture free!
Highlights:
-
Mix-and-go, no waste formula
-
Zero VOCs
-
Versatile finishes – from smooth to crackled
-
Dry in minutes, fully cured in half an hour
Great for:
-
Keeping heirlooms and antiques authentic
-
Crackled, chippy, old-world charm
-
Garden boxes, animal enclosures and children’s toys
Prep
Prep work with milk paint is minimal. As with all paints, it is based on the surface on which you are painting BUT the ingredients and ratio used to mix the paint can vary depending on your desired finish.
Stain
On raw wood, be it new or recently stripped, milk paint will penetrate the open pores and stain the wood. You control how translucent the stain is by adjusting the ratio of powder to water. To do this, scuff sand a small area and wipe away the dust. Start with a mixture made of 1 tablespoon water and a 1/2 tablespoon powder (a 2:1 ratio) and paint a small section. Adjust the recipe until you get the desired result, noting what your final ratio is.
Example: I want a semi-transluscent stain for my deck. I’m going to mix 1 cup of water with a 1/2 cup of powder.
Opaque + Uniform
Milk paint can be turned into a full coverage, highly adhesive paint that can be applied to laminate, melamine, thermofoil and previously painted or varnished surfaces by adding Fusion™ Ultra Grip when mixing. For every part water, add an equal part of powder and an equal part of Ultra Grip (a 1:1:1 ratio). Mix until all of the powder has been dissolved and the paint has an even consistency.
Example: I want a full coverage paint for my Ikea dresser. I’m going to mix 1 cup of water with 1 cup of powder and 1 cup of Ultra Grip.
Chip + Crackle
These are the coveted qualities of milk paint. Without a bonding agent, the paint has a tendency to chip, crackle and peel when applied to a non-porous surface such as Fusion™ Mineral Paint. Mix 1 part water with 1 part powder. Whisk until the powder is fully dissolved.
Example: I want to paint my antique hutch but make it look authentic to its age. I’m going to mix 1 cup of water with 1 cup of powder.
As with most paints, any wax or oil on the surface will need to be removed with a solvent and high-gloss painted or varnished surfaces will benefit from a scuff sand.
Supplies:
-
Warm soapy water (use an oil-free dish soap)
-
A cloth, scrubbing sponge and toothbrush
-
Sanding pads
-
+/- Ultra Grip
-
+/- odourless solvent
Steps:
-
Strip any wax or oil from the piece with odourless solvent.
-
Thoroughly clean your piece with warm soapy water and give it a final wipe down with a damp cloth to rinse.
-
Scuff sand high-gloss painted or varnished pieces until dull. Wipe away dust.
Mixing:
-
In a wide-mouth container, add 1 part water to one part powder (adjust if staining).
-
If painting over laminate, melamine or thermofoil, add an equal part of Ultra Grip.
-
Whisk for 1 minute.
Painting
Painting with milk paint is stress-free. You can use any brush and get a smooth result. Any undesirable texture can be smooth sanded during the finishing process.
After you’ve mixed your paint based on your desired outcome, be sure to stir it frequently throughout your project. Also, make sure you’ve mixed enough paint to complete a full coat and never “top-up” your paint with a new mix.
Hate waiting for paint to dry? You’ll have just enough time to make a coffee between coats and won’t have to wait weeks for it to cure, either. The paint will be dry in 15-30 minutes and cured in under an hour!
Want more cracks or chips? Use a hair dryer to speed-up the dry time.
Sealing
Milk paint is considered porous when dry and should be sealed to prevent stains and natural distressing (unless that’s your goal, of course). Adding a topcoat will also bring out its the depth of colour! For a smooth, non-toxic surface that feels like butter, try wet-sanding your finished piece with hemp oil. Alternatively, you can use tung oil, wax or for extra durability, Stain & Finishing Oil. Always give your paintwork at least 12 hours to dry before applying a topcoat.
Hemp Oil
- Pour a generous amount of hemp oil onto the surface.
- Using a very fine grit sanding pad, gently sand the surface in small circular motions.
- Wipe away any excess oil with a lint-free cloth.
- Allow to dry for __ hours. Fully cured in __ days.
- Re-apply hemp oil with a lint-free cloth as necessary and avoid using soap and furniture polish.
Tung Oil (all outdoor projects)
- Using a brush, apply tung oil liberally to the surface and allow it to soak in.
- Wipe away any excess with a lint-free cloth.
- Allow to dry __ hours. Fully cured in __ days.
- Re-apply as needed.
Wax
- Apply a small amount of wax to a lint-free cloth.
- Rub wax into surface and wipe away any excess with a clean cloth.
- Allow to dry __ hours. Fully cured in __ days.
- For extra shine, buff with a lint-free cloth after 24 hours.
Stain & Finishing Oil
- Stir oil well.
- Apply a small amount to a lint-free cloth and gently rub into surface.
- Wipe away excess oil with a clean, lint-free cloth.
- Allow to dry for 24 hours. Fully cured in 10 days.
FEATURED PRODUCTS
